Situated in Irving’s Las Colinas development, alongside office parks and chain hotels, Edoko Omakase may not look like much from the outside. But the food at this two-month old Japanese restaurant turned my world sideways during a recent visit. Owned by Sara Nam, who is behind similarly named Edoko Sushi and Robata in Irving and Frisco, the latest concept is built around the omakase concept—a multicourse meal during which the customers leave the menu up to the kitchen staff—from the small team of cooks overseen by executive chef Keunsik Lee. But I wasn’t there for the chef-inspired sushi and sashimi plates. I was there for the tacos.
Edoko Omakase was recommended to me by members of the Asian Grub in DFDUB (DFW) Facebook group, organized by Asian restaurant owners and fans in the wake of racist backlash during the early days of the COVID-19 pandemic. The tacos here are listed only on an available-by-request menu. Topped variously with pink-and-white-striped salmon belly, tuna, a smattering of vegetables, and freshwater eel, all four tacos are served on a locally sourced, lightly grilled corn tortilla. They’re capped with garnishes such as squiggles of chile-infused crema and thinly sliced serrano chiles. Small lime wedges finish things off. The salmon belly is served on a creamy fan of avocado slices. My favorite was by far the unagi (freshwater eel) with plump halved cherry tomatoes and a peppy, silky wasabi salsa verde, seeds included. The modern presentation, thoughtful layering of flavors, and balance of textures left me stunned. I had to ask myself: was this a one-off, or are Japanese tacos a developing, even codified style of taco?
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